First post. Training.

I've read through chapter 7 (page 104) of Into Thin Air and I love it already. As a rock climber I've been advised many times to read this book and I am glad I am finally getting the chance to. While reading the book I noticed Krakauer often mentions the skills and training necessary to climb Everest. It first became apparent on page 27 when he said "if he would consider postponing the assignment for twelve months (which would give me time to train properly for the physical demands of the expedition.)" I understand the allure surrounding the mountain, and so I was quite curious as to what specific training is needed.

According to climber Alan Arnette's website (http://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everesttraining.php) , to climb Everest you ideally train to be in 'Everest Shape.' Arnette has climbed Everest 4 times and reached the summit in 2011 on his fourth attempt. Arnette is clear to point out that every climber has training preferences and there is more than one right way. However, no matter what way one chooses, it is necessary to push oneself past both physical and mental limits, without injury. He says the best way to prepare for the high altitudes and rough conditions is to begin a dedicated training program and give yourself plenty of time (8-12 months).

 He points out that at high altitudes the muscles and heart are working overtime to get oxygen and it is important to consult a doctor and perform many tests and check ins to make sure your body can handle this. He presents that the best way to mentally train is to do it at intervals within the physical training. You have to accept the fact that you will need to be patient, you will likely experience some sickness, and you may not reach the summit. He advises pushing yourself past your endurance to practice mental discipline. Arnette also says that it is important to surround yourself with like-minded, positive people on the expedition and support each other.

Arnette advises 3 phases of training: foundation, aerobic/strength, and peaking. For the foundation phase Arnette advises to take time to develop the approximate foundation of running 5 10minute miles, and doing at least 20 reps of leg lunges for 3 sets. For the aerobic and strength phase, he advises interval training, with many warm ups and cool downs. For the last phase, peaking, Arnette advises to tune weak areas and maintaining an ideal healthy body weight. Here is a sample training schedule he posted:

Training seems to be a matter based off of personal strengths and weaknesses, but Arnette lays down a great foundation for any aspiring climbers. Also, in the link above, he has videos and photos from his pervious Everest trip, incase anyone is interested.