Post #2-Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev is a very misunderstood guide who, despite other comments, is really a smart and capable man. In an article in Men's Journal, Boukreev was asked a series of interview questions after the summit. When asked about the descent from the mountain, he answered, "My position was that I would not be good if I stood around freezing, waiting. I would be more useful if I returned to Camp Four in order to be able to take oxygen up to the returning climbers or to go up to help them if some became weak during the descent...If you are immobile at that altitude you lose strength in the cold, and then you are unable to do anything." During the descent from the mountain, a normal guide would stay close to his/her clients to guide them down safely. Boukreev, however, took an unorthodox turn and decided to go back down from the summit much earlier than the rest of his clients. While most people would view this is irresponsible and selfish, Boukreev stated how it was really for the best and he had an entire reasonable plan in his mind. Because he is Russian, it is not in his culture to be "touchy-feely" with other people, and this must include clients. While most guides would view their expedition group as their family for the time-being, Anatoli Boukreev saw them as part of his job and just pieces in the game of the expedition. Boukreev possesses strong leadership skills, and this is visible by his multiple decisions to try his own way and not follow the pre-described plan. While his leadership is admirable, it can also be looked down upon in a group setting. In an expedition such as Mountain Madness to Everest, working well in a group is necessary. Boukreev is strong, independent and intelligent, however he is lacking in group skills. While many people see him as arrogant, he is simply misunderstood and not in the correct situation to show off his true strengths.
Holly is talking about how people feel Boukreev is selfish and arrogant and that a responsible guide would stay with his clients. However, if he remained at a high altitude, he could also have gotten sick or died. So he had to go to a lower base camp and save himself in order to save others. This is a lot like parents on an airplane putting on their oxygen mask first before their children so they can help the children once they are breathing. I know someone who has read other books about Bookreev, and he later wrote an account of this summit of Everest, then he climbed K2 and fell to his death on that climb.
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